Bitkilerden elde edilen ekstreler ve fitokimyasallar, geçmişten günümüze farmasötik ve kozmetik alanda kullanılan preparatların içeriğinde yer almışlardır. Özellikle kozmetik preparatlarda, son zamanlarda doğal içerikli ürünler ön plana çıkmaktadır. Kozmetikler, tarih boyunca insanlar için yaşamın vazgeçilmez bir parçası olmuştur. Kozmetik ürünlerde kullanılan kimyasal maddelerin günümüzde bilinen tehlikeli etkilerinden dolayı bitkisel içerekli doğal ürünlerin kullanımı gündeme gelmiştir. Sentetik kaynaklı ürünlerin keşfedilen bu yan etkileri, pek çok alanda bitkisel kaynaklı doğal ürünlerin tercih edilmesini teşvik etmiştir. Geçtiğimiz yıllarda bilhassa kimyasalların yan etkileri bilinir hâle geldikten sonra, doğal kaynaklı bileşenlerin ve ekstrelerin kozmetik formülasyonlarda kullanımı artmıştır. Kozmetik endüstrisi de artan bu talebe kayıtsız kalmayarak, her geçen gün portföyüne yeni bir bitkisel içerikli kozmetik preparat katmaktadır. Bu derlemede kozmetik preparatlar, bitkisel içerikli kozmetik ürünlere genel bakış konusu ve günlük hayatta yahut deneysel çalışmalarda kozmetik etkisi ispatlanmış ve sıklıkla kullanılan bitkilerin etkileri genel olarak özetlenmiştir. Halk arasında bilinen kozmetik bitkisel karışımların ya da yalnızca drogların kullanımlarına değinilmiştir. Bununla beraber halk arasında kozmetik amaçlı kullanımı olmayan, ancak deneysel çalışmalarla kozmetik preparatlarda kullanım potansiyeli olan bitkilerden ve droglardan da bahsedilmiştir. Bu amaçla, çeşitli bitkiler üzerinde durulmuş ve bu bitkilerin hangi aktivite üzerinden hangi kozmetik amaçla kullanıldığından bahsedilmiştir. Bu bağlamda, gerek koruyucu gerekse ana bileşen olarak kullanılan bitkisel kaynaklı kozmetik içeriklerin kısa bir özeti çıkarılmıştır.
Anahtar Kelimeler: Kozmetikler; topikal uygulama; bitki ekstreleri; bitki yağları; saç preparatları; cilt bakımı
Extracts and phytochemicals obtained from plants have been included in the preparations used in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic fields from the past to the present. Particularly in cosmetic preparations, natural ingredients have recently been preferred. Cosmetics have been an important part of life from past to present. Due to the known dangerous effects of chemicals used in cosmetic products, the use of natural herbal products has increased. These side effects of synthetic sourced products have encouraged the preference for naturally sourced products in many areas. The cosmetic industry is not indifferent to this increasing demand and adds a new herbal cosmetic preparation to its portfolio every day. In this review, cosmetic preparations, an overview of cosmetic products with herbal ingredients, and cosmetic effect in daily life or experimental studies have been proved and the effects of frequently used plants are summarized in general. The use of cosmetic herbal mixtures known to the public, or only drugs. In addition, plants and drugs that are not used for cosmetic purposes but have the potential to be used in cosmetic preparations by experimental studies are also mentioned. For this purpose, various plants were emphasized and it was mentioned about which activity these plants were used for which cosmetic purpose. In this context, a short summary of the cosmetic ingredients of herbal origin used as both preservative and main ingredient has been prepared.
Keywords: Cosmetics; topical administration; plant extracts; plant oils; hair preparations; skin care
- Çomoğlu T. Cosmetics. Marmara Pharm J. 2012;16:1-8.[Crossref]
- Draelos ZD. Shampoos, conditioners, and camouflage techniques. Dermatol Clin. 2013;31(1):173-8.[Crossref] [PubMed]
- Bhushan B. Nanoscale characterization of human hair and hair conditioners. Prog Mater Sci. 2008;53:585-710.[Crossref]
- Harrison S, Sinclair R. Hair colouring, permanent styling and hair structure. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2003;2(3-4):180-5.[Crossref] [PubMed]
- Kececioglu Draelos Z. Cosmetics: an overview. Curr Probl Dermatol. 1995;7(2):45-64.[Crossref]
- Gray J. Hair care and hair care products. Clin Dermatol. 2001;19(2):227-36.[Crossref] [PubMed]
- Draelos ZD. Cosmetic treatment of nails. Clin Dermatol. 2013;31(5):573-7.[Crossref] [PubMed]
- Draelos ZD. Cosmetics and skin care products. A historical perspective. Dermatol Clin. 2000;18(4):557-9.[Crossref] [PubMed]
- Cheng YS, Lam KW, Ng KM, Ko RKM, Wibowo C. An integrative approach to product development-A skin-care cream. Comput Chem Eng. 2009;21;33(5):1097-1113.[Crossref] [PubMed] [PMC]
- Costa R, Santos L. Delivery systems for cosmetics - from manufacturing to the skin of natural antioxidants. Powder Technol. 2017;322:402-16.[Crossref]
- Cavallo P, Proto MC, Patruno C, Del Sorbo A, Bifulco M. The first cosmetic treatise of history. A female point of view. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2008;30(2):79-86.[Crossref] [PubMed]
- Packianathan N, Kandasamy R. Skin care with herbal exfoliants. Funct Plant Sci Biotechnol. 2011;5(1):94-7.[Link]
- Cuong TV, Chin KB. Effects of annatto (Bixa orellana L.) seeds powder on physicochemical properties, antioxidant and antimicrobial activities of pork patties during refrigerated storage. Korean J Food Sci Anim Resour. 2016;36(4):476-86.[Crossref] [PubMed] [PMC]
- US4948583A - Cosmetic composition for the treatment of hair, particularly oily hair, based on an extract of yarrow (Achillea millefolium L) - Google Patents.[Link]
- Becker LC, Bergfeld WF, Belsito DV, Hill RA, Klaassen CD, Liebler DC, et al. Safety assessment of achillea millefolium as used in cosmetics. Int J Toxicol. 2016;35(3 suppl):5S-15S.[Crossref] [PubMed]
- Dal'Belo SE, Gaspar LR, Campos PMM. Moisturizing effect of cosmetic formulations containing aloe vera extract in different concentrations assessed by skin bioengineering techniques. Skin Res Technol. 2006;12(4):241-6.[Crossref] [PubMed]
- Marissal J, Aubert LP. Slenderizing and anti-cellulitis cosmetic composition based on an extract of a plant containing saponins, an extract of Arnica Montana L and a kola nut extract, and to a process for using the same- US4684522A United States Patent. March 1985.[Link]
- European Medicines Agency (EMA), Committee on Herbal Medicinal Products (HMPC), Herbal monograph.(accessed March 29, 2020).[Link]
- Farboud ES, Amin G, Akbari L. Avena sativa: an effective natural ingredient in herbal shampoos for the treatment of hair greasiness. Br J Med Med Res. 2013;3(2):361-71.[Crossref]
- Germanò MP, Cacciola F, Donato P, Dugo P, Certo G, D'Angelo V, et al. Betula pendula leaves: polyphenolic characterization and potential innovative use in skin whitening products. Fitoterapia. 2012;83(5):877-82.[Crossref] [PubMed]
- Akhtar N, Zaman SU, Khan BA, Shoaib Khan HM, Khan S, Ahmad M, et al. Evaluation of various functional skin parameters using a topical cream of Calendula officinalis extract. African J Pharm Pharmacol. 2011;5(2):199-206.[Crossref]
- Kaur CD, Saraf S. Photochemoprotective activity of alcoholic extract of Camellia sinensis. Int J Pharmacol. 2011;7(3):400-4.[Crossref]
- Thring TS, Hili P, Naughton DP. Anti-collagenase, anti-elastase and anti-oxidant activities of extracts from 21 plants. BMC Complement Altern Med. 2009;9:27.[Crossref] [PubMed] [PMC]
- Gianeti MD, Mercurio DG, Campos PM. The use of green tea extract in cosmetic formulations: not only an antioxidant active ingredient. Dermatol Ther. 2013;26(3):267-71.[Crossref] [PubMed]
- Saini R, Mittal A, Rathi V. Formulation & in-vitro antioxidant analysis of anti-ageing cream of Carica papaya fruit extract. Indian J Drugs. 2016;4(1):8-14.[Link]
- Kardono LBS, Liandhajani L, Artanti N, Iskandar YM, Sutaryo SMB. Development of papaya latex, papaya extract (Carica papaya L.) and yam bean tuber extract (Pachyrrhizus erosus (L.) Urb.) for skin lightening lotion based on tyrosinase inhibition and antioxidant activities. J Ilmu Kefarmasian Indones. 2013;11(2):191-6.[Link]
- US6416769B1 - Cosmetic compositions comprising exfoliating enzymes and uses thereof - Google Patents.[Link]
- Shenekar PN, Ukirade PS, Salunkhe SD, Sutar ST, Magdum CS, Mohite SK, et al. In vitro evaluation of sun protection factor of fruit extract of Carica papaya L. as a lotion formulation. European Journal of Experimental Biology. 2014;4(2):44-7.[Link]
- Contini M, Baccelloni S, Massantini R, Anelli G. Extraction of natural antioxidants from hazelnut (Corylus avellana L.) shell and skin wastes by long maceration at room temperature. Food Chem. 2008;110(3):659-69.[Crossref]
- Jarzycka A, Lewińska A, Gancarz R, Wilk KA. Assessment of extracts of Helichrysum arenarium, Crataegus monogyna, Sambucus nigra in photoprotective UVA and UVB; photostability in cosmetic emulsions. J Photochem Photobiol B: Biology, 2013;128:50-7.[Crossref] [PubMed]
- Nema NK, Maity N, Sarkar B, Mukherjee PK. Cucumis sativus fruit-potential antioxidant, anti-hyaluronidase, and anti-elastase agent. Arch Dermatol Res. 2011;303(4):247-52.[Crossref] [PubMed]
- Kai H, Baba M, Okuyama T. Inhibitory effect of Cucumis sativus on melanin production in melanoma B16 cells by downregulation of tyrosinase expression. Planta Med. 2008;74(15):1785-8.[Crossref] [PubMed]
- Bamiro OA, Ajala TO, Adenokun EG. A new emulsifying agent: cucumis sativus linnaeus mucilage. J Pharm Res Int. 2017;17(3):1-9.[Crossref]
- Lee KK, Kim JH, Cho JJ, Choi JD. Inhibitory Effects of 150 plant extracts on elastase activity, and their anti-inflammatory effects. Int J Cosmet Sci. 1999;21(2):71-82.[Crossref] [PubMed]
- Sumiyoshi M, Kimura Y. Effects of a turmeric extract (Curcuma longa) on chronic ultraviolet B irradiation-induced skin damage in melanin-possessing hairless mice. Phytomedicine. 2009;16(12):1137-43.[Crossref] [PubMed]
- Saraf S, Jeswani G, Kaur CD, Saraf S. Development of novel herbal cosmetic cream with Curcuma longa extract loaded transfersomes for antiwrinkle effect. African J Pharm Pharmacol. 2011;5(8):1054-62.[Link]
- European Medicines Agency. Community Herbal Monograph on Curcuma longa L.,. p.1-5.[Link]
- Marques P, Marto J, Gonçalves LM, Pacheco R, Fitas M, Pinto P, et al. Cynara scolymus L.: a promising mediterranean extract for topical anti-aging prevention. Ind Crops Prod. 2017;109:699-706.[Crossref]
- EMA. European Medicines Agency. 2010.[Link]
- Hayati F, Chabib L. Formulation and evaluation of herbal lipsticks from carrot (Daucus carota L) extract. Int J Pharm Pharm Sci. 2016;8(3):403-5.[Link]
- N'Guyen Q-L. Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition containing a combination of a polyphenol and a ginkgo extract- US5686082A United States Patent. 1993.[Link]
- Kıvrak Ş, Göktürk T, Kıvrak İ. Assessment of volatile oil composition, phenolics and antioxidant activity of bay (Laurus nobilis) leaf and usage in cosmetic applications. Int J Sec Metabolite. 2017;4(2):148-61.[Crossref]
- Pieroni A, Quave CL, Villanelli ML, Mangino P, Sabbatini G, Santini L, et al. Ethnopharmacognostic survey on the natural ingredients used in folk cosmetics, cosmeceuticals and remedies for healing skin diseases in the inland Marches, Central-Eastern Italy. J Ethnopharmacol. 2004;91(2-3):331-44.[Crossref] [PubMed]
- Kunicka-Styczyńska A, Sikora M, Kalemba D. Antimicrobial activity of lavender, tea tree and lemon oils in cosmetic preservative systems. J Appl Microbiol. 2009;1;107(6):1903-11.[Crossref] [PubMed]
- Budiman A, Aulifa DL, Kusuma ASW, Sulastri A. Antibacterial and antioxidant activity of black mulberry (Morus nigra L.) extract for acne treatment. Pharmacogn J. 2017;9(5):611-4.[Crossref]
- Budiman A, Aulifa DL, Kusuma ASW, Kurniawan IS, Sulastri A. Peel-off gel formulation from black mulberries (Morus nigra) extract as anti-acne mask. Natl J Physiol Pharm Pharmacol. 2017;7(9):987-94.[Crossref]
- Budiman A, Praditasari A, Rahayu D, Aulifa DL. Formulation of antioxidant gel from black mulberry fruit extract (Morus nigra L.). J Pharm Bioallied Sci. 2019;11(3):216-22.[Crossref] [PubMed] [PMC]
- Cosmetic compositions containing mulberry extract and retinoids. September 2000.[Link]
- Binic I, Lazarevic V, Ljubenovic M, Mojsa J, Sokolovic D. Skin ageing: natural weapons and strategies. Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine. 2013.[Crossref] [PubMed] [PMC]
- Chou TH, Ding HY, Lin RJ, Liang JY, Liang CH. Inhibition of melanogenesis and oxidation by protocatechuic acid from Origanum vulgare (oregano). J Nat Prod. 2010;29;73(11):1767-74.[Crossref] [PubMed]
- Suraj R, Rejitha G, Anbu J, Sunilson JAJ, Anandarajagopal K, Promwichit P, et al. In vivo hair growth activity of Prunus dulcis seeds in rats. Biology and Medicine. 2009;1(4):34-8.[Link]
- Parveen R, Akhtar N, Mahmood T. Topical microemulsion containing Punica granatum extract: its control over skin erythema and melanin in healthy Asian subjects. Postepy Dermatol Alergol. 2014;31(6):351-5.[Crossref] [PubMed] [PMC]
- Akhtar N, Parveen R, Khan BA, Jamshaid M, Khan H. Development of skin-friendly dermatological water-in-oil emulsion of pomegranate juice. Proc Pakistan Acad Sci. 2012;49(4):269-78.[Link]
- Belsito MD, Klaassen CD, Liebler DC, Marks Jr, JG, Shank RC. Safety Assessment of Punica granatum-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics. 2019.[Link]
- Dario MF, Pahl R, de Castro JR, De Lima FS, Kaneko TM, Pinto CASO, et al. Efficacy of Punica granatum L. hydroalcoholic extract on properties of dyed hair exposed to UVA radiation. J Photochem Photobiol B: Biology. 2013;120:142-7.[Crossref] [PubMed]
- US4997649A - Cosmetic and dermatological compositions including an extract of Silybum marianum rich in silymarine associated with essential fatty acids - Google Patents.[Link]
- Abdul Karim A, Azlan A, Ismail A, Hashim P, Abd Gani SS, Zainudin BH, et al. Efficacy of cocoa pod extract as antiwrinkle gel on human skin surface. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2016;15(3):283-95.[Crossref] [PubMed]
- Fonseca-Santos B, Funagoshi EE, de Oliveira JRS, do Sacramento LVS, dos Santos AG, Leonardi GR, et al. Organic cocoa extract-loaded surfactant-based systems intended to skin bioadhesion. Braz J Pharm Sci. 2017;53(3):e00051[Crossref]
- Bourgeois C, Leclerc ÉA, Corbin C, Doussot J, Serrano V, Vanier JR, et al. Nettle (Urtica dioica L.) as a source of antioxidant and anti-aging phytochemicals for cosmetic applications. Comptes Rendus Chim. 2016;19(9):1090-1100.[Crossref]
- HMPC. Overview of comments received on Community herbal monograph on Urtica dioica L.; Urtica urens L., folium. 2010.[Link]
- US6638545B1 - Food complement and method for cosmetic treatment based on a grape extract rich in polyphenols - Google Patents.[Link]
- Gallarate M, Mittone E, Carlotti ME, Trotta M, Piccerelle P. Formulation of dry emulsion for topical applications. J Dispers Sci Technol. 2009;30(6):823-33.[Crossref]
- Sharif A, Akhtar N, Khan MS, Menaa A, Menaa B, Khan BA, et al. Formulation and evaluation on human skin of a water-in-oil emulsion containing Muscat hamburg black grape seed extract. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2015;37(2):253-8.[Crossref] [PubMed]
- Cengiz Şahin S. The potential of Arthrospira platensis extract as a tyrosinase inhibitor for pharmaceutical or cosmetic applications. South African J Bot. 2018;119:236-43.[Crossref]
- Kim DU, Chung HC, Kim C, Hwang JK. Oral intake of Boesenbergia pandurata extract improves skin hydration, gloss, and wrinkling: a randomized, double-blind, and placebo-controlled study. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2017;16(4):512-9.[Crossref] [PubMed]
- Ratz-Łyko A, Arct J, Pytkowska K. Moisturizing and Antiinflammatory properties of cosmetic formulations containing centella asiatica extract. Indian J Pharm Sci. 2016;78(1):27-33.[Crossref] [PubMed] [PMC]
- Park YM, Han JS. A study on the utilization of dendropanax morbifera lev. Leaf extract for material of functional cosmetics and hair growth products. Asian J Beauty Cosmetol. 2016;14(3):277-88.[Crossref]
- de Brito Damasceno GA, da Costa Silva RMA, Fernandes JM, Ostrosky EA, Langassner SMZ, Ferrari M, et al. Use of Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill extracts from Brazilian Caatinga as an alternative of natural moisturizer in cosmetic formulations. Brazilian J Pharm Sci. 2016;52(3):459-70.[Crossref]
- Hammer KA. Treatment of acne with tea tree oil (melaleuca) products: a review of efficacy, tolerability and potential modes of action. Int J Antimicrob Agents. 2015;45(2):106-10.[Crossref] [PubMed]
- Damasceno GAB, Barreto SMAG, Reginaldo FPS, Souto AL, Negreiros MMF, Viana RLS, et al. Prosopis juliflora as a new cosmetic ingredient: development and clinical evaluation of a bioactive moisturizing and anti-aging innovative solid core. Carbohydr Polym. 2020;1;233:115854.[Crossref] [PubMed]
- Milani LPG, Garcia NOS, Morais MC, Dias ALS, Oliveira NL, Conceição EC. Extract from byproduct Psidium guajava standardized in ellagic acid: additivation of the in vitro photoprotective efficacy of a cosmetic formulation. Brazilian J Pharmacogn. 2018;28(6):692-6.[Crossref]
- Lacatusu I, Arsenie LV, Badea G, Popa O, Oprea O, Badea N, et al. New cosmetic formulations with broad photoprotective and antioxidative activities designed by amaranth and pumpkin seed oils nanocarriers. Ind Crop Prod. 2018;123:424-33.[Crossref]
- Choi KT, Kim JH, Cho HT, Lim SS, Kwak SS, Kim YJ, et al. Dermatologic evaluation of cosmetic formulations containing Chrysanthemum indicum extract. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2016;15(2):162-8.[Crossref] [PubMed]
- Waqas MK, Akhtar N, Khan HMS, Mustafa R, Murtaza G. Stability study of a cosmetic emulsion loaded with Tamarindus indica seeds extract. Lat Am J Pharm. 2014;33(5):731-8.[Link]
- Wagemaker TA, Rijo P, Rodrigues LM, Maia Campos PM, Fernandes AS, Rosado C, et al. Integrated approach in the assessment of skin compatibility of cosmetic formulations with green coffee oil. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2015;37(5):506-10.[Crossref] [PubMed]
.: İşlem Listesi